To Redlands Plumbing Heating and Air Conditioning,

I would like to express my thanks to you and also Josh, the service person who repaired the heater at my Church St. property.

Josh was very professional and explained his repairs which proved to repair a heater badly neglected.  Please express my thanks to Josh, its very nice to see a person committed to personal appearance and professionalism.

Thank you,

C. Hernandez

Just a quick note to thank you and the wonderful people at Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating &Air Conditioning for the fantastic job you have all done, working together as an effective, efficient team to turns residence/home office into a comfortable, energy efficient super star.

Prior to your involvement, my home office with it’s multitude of servers and computers was uncomfortably warm for me and my equipment despite three fans and a room air conditioner and an average Edison bill of $550/month.

Now we all enjoy comfort and a reduction of our energy costs of over 72%.

As a result, we have recommended you to …]]> Chris,

Just a quick note to thank you and the wonderful people at Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating &Air Conditioning for the fantastic job you have all done, working together as an effective, efficient team to turns residence/home office into a comfortable, energy efficient super star.

Prior to your involvement, my home office with it’s multitude of servers and computers was uncomfortably warm for me and my equipment despite three fans and a room air conditioner and an average Edison bill of $550/month.

Now we all enjoy comfort and a reduction of our energy costs of over 72%.

As a result, we have recommended you to several of our friends, relatives and customers.

Thanks for the the great work.

The duct system is largely responsible for what you actually feel when you heat and air condition your home. It doesn’t matter what size A/C unit you have 3ton, 4 ton, etc or how efficient your furnace is if that air doesn’t get into your home. You are paying good money to have hot or cold air added to your home so that you can be comfortable. I would even go so far …]]> Homeowners ask me all the time if they really need new ducts when we replace their heating and air conditioning system. The answer, almost always, is a resounding yes and here’s why.

How is this supposed to work?

The duct system is largely responsible for what you actually feel when you heat and air condition your home. It doesn’t matter what size A/C unit you have 3ton, 4 ton, etc or how efficient your furnace is if that air doesn’t get into your home. You are paying good money to have hot or cold air added to your home so that you can be comfortable. I would even go so far as to say that you want your home the most comfortable it can be at the lowest possible cost. And that combination is largely a result of quality design and installation of your ducts.

Consider this, the average heating and a/c system delivers 55% of its rated capacity, or just a touch over 2.5 tons of cooling on your 5 ton system. That number comes to us from the National Comfort Institute. We do hundreds of tests a year and see that number or worse so often that we are shocked when we see anything higher than 70%. They also tell us that after you go out and pay good money for a new high efficiency unit, you are still only going to get 57% delivered capacity. So basically, you’ve got a great new unit that you are driving around town with one foot on the gas and one on the brake. New ducts done right releases that brake.

The biggest culprit in the demise of your systems delivered capacity that we see on a day-to-day basis is returns that are too small or just poorly thought out. Think of your heater and the fan that is in that heater as the heart of your system and the ducts as the lungs. If you can’t get enough air into the system, the heart can’t do what it needs to do and will die sooner. I measured a 5 ton system the other day that only had 533 CFM’s ( or 533 basketballs of air per minute) going into the return when it should have had 2,000 CFM’s. That’s like living your life with your lips taped around a coffee stirrer straw and a clothespin on your nose. It is no wonder that the homeowner isn’t feeling comfortable and has high bills. The system can not exhale on the supply side what it isn’t inhaling on the return side. Most of the time our duct replacements will include the addition of a new return or enlarging the existing return.

Split duct leaking air

Additionally ducts systems that are designed well can deliver prescribed CFM’s on a room by room basis, thus ensuring similar temperatures throughout the house and a greater sense of comfort. One of the last steps in all of our installations involves one tech measuring the air at each register with a flow hood against the design and calling up to the other tech in the attic who moves a series of manual dampers in the duct system so that each register gets to within 10% of the designed airflow. Every room in a house is different, if not in size then in the amount of windows it has and how it orientates to the sun as it passes over your home. Thus the load in each room differs. Air balancing according to engineered design addresses these differences and results in greater comfort for the occupants of the house.

Straight ducts deliver air better

Another great result of new ducting in a home is increased insulation on the ducts. Here in California most duct systems are in the attic, where temperatures regularly reach +140°. Anything that you can do to get that air to spend as little time in that environment as possible is a plus. This includes shortening duct lengths, where possible, and sealing the ducts so that no attic air is introduced into the system. Insulating those ducts to the greatest R-value possible has a large upside as well. We install R-8 insulated ducts that is encased in Mylar® and when possible bury it in blown in insulation. This protects the air that comes from your heater or A/C as it travels through the attic as much as possible.

Quality designed ducts should deliver the air evenly, quietly and with enough velocity to mix the air in your rooms. It should maximize the equipment that you put into your home. Quality designed ducts are the most important component of your heating and air conditioning system, so why wouldn’t you replace them?

Energy and energy savings myths get passed around surprisingly rapidly, often with little scrutiny. But an examination of 13 common myths reveals that they should be treated with some healthy skepticism. Sometimes the basic premise of the myth is correct, but the energy savings …]]> I found this article on Home Energy Magazine’s website. It lays out a number of Energy Myths that we bump into when we meet with homeowners. A big thank you to Evan Mills for putting this article together.

Energy Myths

Energy and energy savings myths get passed around surprisingly rapidly, often with little scrutiny.

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Energy and energy savings myths get passed around surprisingly rapidly, often with little scrutiny. But an examination of 13 common myths reveals that they should be treated with some healthy skepticism. Sometimes the basic premise of the myth is correct, but the energy savings are much smaller than people realize. In other cases, the myth is based on factors that were once true but have been subsequently resolved through better design or manufacturing of products. In all cases, the bottom line is that you should always think critically when you hear a “tip” on how to save energy–and dig a little deeper to separate the myths from the facts.

Myth: Buying an efficient air conditioner or furnace will automatically reduce my energy bill.

This is true to some extent, but you won’t realize all the possible savings if the equipment is not sized or installed properly. Studies have shown that typical air conditioner and duct systems are improperly installed, wasting one-third or more of the energy used by the air conditioner. New and replacement equipment (and ducts) need to be properly designed and installed to realize all the possible savings. The same caveats about proper installation hold true for insulation, windows, and many other energy efficiency upgrades.

Chris Here: I’d like to add 2 notes to this one. First, tests have shown that the average existing home HVAC system delivers 55% of it rated capacity. When a new one is installed, the average delivered capacity jumps to 57%. How that system is being designed and installed can bring that delivered capacity to 100%, however, most residential installations do not address all of the problems necessary to achieve that 100% delivered capacity ( our installation take all factors into account to deliver the best possible effectiveness). Second, often times homeowners will want to install a larger air-conditioning unit on their home believing that if it can cool the house faster, it will be cheaper to run. However, over-sizing a system leads to short-cycling and higher energy costs. 

Myth: Energy efficiency and energy conservation are one and the same thing.

Well-intentioned information campaigns during the oil crises of the 1970s created a lot of confusion about how to save energy and even about how to talk about saving energy. Energy efficiency means getting the same job done while using less energy. This could be lighting a room, cooling a house, or refrigerating some vegetables. The things made possible by using energy–such as illumination, comfort, or food preservation–are sometimes called energy services.

Energy conservation, on the other hand, means reducing the level of services, such as reducing lighting or comfort, or turning up the temperature of your fridge. Reducing service levels (conservation) does not necessarily mean sacrifice, however. For example, many spaces are overlit by current-day standards, many water heater temperatures are set too high, and so on. Consumers have the option of improving energy efficiency (such as through purchasing better appliances) and/or reducing service levels, but lowering the quality of life is not a prerequisite for reducing energy demand.

Myth: Duct tape is good for sealing ducts.

Unfortunately, laboratory research has concluded that duct tape has very low durability when used to seal ducts. On new installations, tape often falls off due to poor surface preparation, because ducts tend to be installed in dirty and dusty locations and conditions. On older systems, the tape falls off as it ages and the adhesive dries out and wrinkles. Instead of duct tape, seal ducts with mastic.

Myth: When my appliance is turned off, it’s off.

We’ve found that most devices continue to consume power when they’re switched off, sometimes as much power as when they’re on! A surprisingly large number of electrical products–from air conditioners to VCRs–cannot be switched completely off without unplugging the device. These products draw power 24 hours a day, often without the knowledge of the consumer. We call this power consumption standby power. One easy remedy for this is to unplug appliances when you are out of the house–easily done if many items are grouped together on one power strip.

Myth: Cleaning refrigerator coils saves energy.

While this seems intuitively logical, and very small savings may indeed arise, efforts to actually measure this effect have typically come up empty-handed. Cleaning coils is probably a good idea, especially if you want to cut down on dust and dirt buildup in your kitchen, but don’t expect lower utility bills from it.

Myth: Installing foam gaskets in electrical outlets will significantly reduce air leakage.

Measurements have shown that less than 1% of a home’s air leakage is due to outlets. However, a lot of little holes add up to one big hole. If you’re doing a thorough air sealing job, or you’re in a very big house with a lot of light switches, it wouldn’t hurt to install gaskets–but you might want to save this measure for last, in case you run out of time or energy.

Myth: Leaving lights, computers, and other appliances on uses less energy than turning them off and on repeatedly, and makes them last longer.

The small surge of power created when some devices are turned on is vastly smaller than the energy used by running the device when it’s not needed. While it used to be the case that cycling appliances and lighting on and off significantly reduced their useful lifetimes, these problems have been largely overcome through better design. The rule of thumb today is: Turn off the lights when you leave the room, and use the power-management software that comes with your computer and monitor.

Myth: Energy efficiency increases the first cost of houses.

While efficient products usually cost more, in some cases there may be little or no added initial cost. Most efficient products are also premium products (in terms of features, warranty, and so on), so it’s difficult to say that you are paying for the efficiency. In some instances, efficiency can even reduce first cost, as in the case where smaller, properly sized heating and cooling systems can be installed if they’re highly efficient. When homes are designed well and include such measures as passive solar lighting and heating measures, optimum-value engineering, correctly sized HVAC systems, high-tech windows, and shorter duct runs, up-front building costs often turn out to be about the same as those of conventional homes, while operating costs are significantly lower. What’s more, high-performance homes offer huge savings in terms of occupant comfort and safety, and reduced litigation and callbacks.

Myth: Insulating the ceiling will just cause more heat to leak out of the windows.

Adding insulation to one part of a home won’t increase the “pressure” on heat losses through other parts. However, it is true that poorly insulated areas will be the major losers of heat, and that they often merit attention before improving already well-insulated parts of the home. To best insulate a home, large and small leaks must be addressed.

Myth: Switching to electric room heaters will reduce your energy bill.

This is true only under some circumstances. If you have central electric heating, using individual room heaters may save you money, if you just run the heater in the room that you occupy. But if you have central gas heating (which is typically cheaper per unit of useful heat), you can easily match or even exceed your heating bill by switching to electrical units.

Myth: Fluorescent lighting is unhealthy.

Fluorescent lighting has changed dramatically in the last few years. Today’s fluorescents have greatly improved color quality. And the annoying flicker and hum have been eliminated from fluorescents that use electronic incandescent lighting. Because they require less electricity, fluorescents generate less power plant pollution, which has many known health effects. Fluorescent lights do contain small amounts of mercury and must be disposed of properly. However, additional mercury releases are avoided thanks to reduced use of mercury-containing fossil fuels used to generate electricity. If it’s been a while since you tried fluorescent lights, you might give them another chance. The oft sited claim of fluorescent lights “sapping people’s vitamins” and the like have no basis in fact.

Myth: Halogen lighting is superefficient.

It’s true that halogen lights use slightly less energy than standard incandescent bulbs, but many halogens require transformers that can use extra energy, even when the light is off. They also tend to put off a great deal of heat, which may add to the cooling load of a home during hot weather. Halogens can also pose a serious fire hazard. By comparison, compact fluorescent lights are nearly three times as efficient and put off far less heat. Many new models are dimmable, like halogens.

Myth: Electric heating is more efficient than fuel-based heating.

It’s true that all, or almost all, of the electricity that goes into an electric heater is transformed to useful heat in your home. However, making electricity is an inefficient process, with as much as two-thirds of the input energy (coal, natural gas, and so on) being lost in the process. This is why electricity is typically so much more expensive for the consumer than direct fuels. Don’t forget, though, that combustion appliances in the home must be installed and vented properly and must always have a continuous, reliable source of makeup air.

Reprinted with permission from the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory Web site (http://homeenergysaver.lbl.gov/hes/myths.html).

Article Link: (http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/magazine/121/id/1735)

Our attempt to improve the energy efficiency of our home began in 2008, after the electrical portion of our utility bill soared over $400. We had long been resigned to a steep energy bill, in part because we have a 40-foot solar-heated swimming pool, which has to …]]> The article below is from Home Energy Magazine.  I couldn’t agree with it more. We have come to these exact same conclusions in the homes in which we’ve done energy retrofits.

Article Link: (http://www.homeenergy.org/show/article/magazine/121/id/1735)

Bailey Family Earns Bragging Rights

This article originally appeared in the November/December 2011issue of Home Energy Magazine.

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Our attempt to improve the energy efficiency of our home began in 2008, after the electrical portion of our utility bill soared over $400. We had long been resigned to a steep energy bill, in part because we have a 40-foot solar-heated swimming pool, which has to be filtered at least four or five hours per day even in winter. But this is still a lot of money! It was particularly galling that because of our high level of consumption, we were paying 39 per kilowatt-hour. But what could we do? Where was all the electricity going? There was no way to tell.

When we redid the kitchen, we replaced all the appliances. The new refrigerator, an LG Energy Star model, has an estimated utility cost of only $43 per year. (David Bailey) 

To our horror, we found that two computers in the den were using ridiculous amounts of electricity. (David Bailey)

Two developments led the way to saving electricity — and cash. First, in 2008, electrical costs at the Berkeley Lab’s National Energy Research Scientific Computing Center were rising steeply. The lab was considering installing inexpensive electric power meters to get a handle on electricity use. I thought one of these meters might be useful to monitor my family’s use of electricity. And second, at about the same time, our local utility, Pacific Gas and Electric Company (PG&E) began to install SmartMeters. These meters allow customers to view hour-by-hour usage on the Internet, and thus identify potential trouble spots.

So in February 2009, we purchased a $22 Kill A Watt power meter from Amazon.com, and started measuring the amount of electricity used by our appliances and electronic devices. To our horror, we found that two computers in the den were using ridiculous amounts of electricity — my wife’s PC was using 250 watts around the clock, even when no one was using it, and a Mac workstation I had at home was using 225 watts around the clock. So we soon replaced my wife’s PC with a new energy-efficient laptop, and I shut off the Mac except when I really needed to use it. We found that this change alone saved us roughly $100 per month.

Another unpleasant surprise uncovered by our Kill A Watt meter was the refrigerator. We found that it was consuming about 2.4 kWh per day, which was costing us roughly $30 per month. As it turned out, in 2010 we had extensive water damage in our kitchen, when a rat ate the outlet hose of our dishwasher. So when we redid the kitchen, we replaced all the appliances. The new refrigerator, an LG Energy Star model, has an estimated utility cost of only $43 per year (it actually costs us roughly $5 per month, because our utility rate is higher than that assumed in the Energy Star estimate).

Better Viewing, Lower Energy Bills, and Less Pollution

More than 80% of U.S. homes subscribe to some form of pay-television service.

Transforming those signals into shows, movies, and sports on the screen currently depends on approximately 160 million set-top boxes, nearly all of which are owned and installed by the cable, satellite, phone, or other service provider. The Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), where I work, and Ecos Consulting partnered to better understand how much energy these devices use and how they might be used more efficiently. What we found was startling: In 2010, set-top boxes in the United States consumed approximately 27,000,000,000 kWh of electricity, which is equivalent to the annual output of nine average (500 MW) coal-fired power plants. The electricity required to operate all U.S. boxes is equal to the annual household electricity consumption of the entire state of Maryland, results in 16 million metric tons of CO2 emissions, and costs households more than $3 billion each year. Fortunately, there is great potential for improving the efficiency and reducing the cost of operating these electronics that so many viewers rely upon.

Here are the key findings of the NRDC and Ecos study:

There are approximately 160 million set-top boxes installed in U.S. homes. Almost all of these boxes are owned and installed by the service provider. Today’s set-top boxes operate at near full power even when the consumer is neither watching nor recording a show. As a nation, we spend $2 billion each year to power these boxes when they are not being actively used.

Digital video recorders (DVRs) are growing in popularity and frequently replace set-top boxes without recording capability. DVRs typically use around 40% more energy per year than their non-DVR counterparts.

Better-designed pay-TV set-top boxes could reduce the energy use of the already-installed base of boxes by 30 – 50% by 2020. The big opportunities include: (a) shifting to whole-home solutions that include a main box connected to the primary TV with either TVs specially designed to access the video content stored on the main box or low-power thin client boxes that serve the same function, and (b) having the boxes automatically power down to much lower power levels when not in use (for example, in the middle of the night, or while users are at work).

— Noah Horowitz
Noah Horowitz is a senior scientist at the Natural Resources Defense Council, and director of the Center for Energy Efficiency, San Francisco, California.

One more surprise uncovered by our Kill A Watt meter was our cable/digital video recorder (DVR) box. These devices consume a lot of electricity even when they are switched off (see “Better Viewing, Lower Energy Bills, and Less Pollution”). On or off, ours was consuming 28 watts around the clock. So we plugged all our video equipment, including our new LED flat-screen TV and the cable/DVR box, into a power strip and shut the power strip off when we weren’t using the equipment. Now when we switch the equipment on, it takes 30 seconds or so before we can watch TV, but we are willing to make this onerous sacrifice for the sake of energy efficiency (wink).

The Bailey’s Monthly Electric Bill

Figure 1. We cut the electrical portion of our PG&E bill from about $400 per month three years ago to only about $50 per month today.

We had long suspected that our swimming pool filter pump was costing us plenty, but we couldn’t measure its usage with the Kill A Watt meter (which works only for items with a standard electrical plug). However, when PG&E installed a SmartMeter on our property, we were able to see how much power the pump was using each day, and concluded that it was costing us roughly $100 per month. So after consulting with our pool service company, we replaced it with a new ultraefficient, multispeed pump. This now costs us only about $25 per month.

One more change was to replace all 38 ceiling can lights in our house with LED can fixtures (manufactured by Cree, Incorporated, and now available at Home Depot). These are a nice true white color, are dimmable, and what’s more, screw into standard can sockets. These were relatively expensive, but we should recoup the cost in five years.

The bottom line is that we have cut the electrical portion of our PG&E bill from about $400 per month three years ago to only about $50 per month today — plus or minus some blips here and there due to unusual events such as family get-togethers or remodel crews (see Figure 1).

>> learn more

For more information on the NRDC and Ecos study, please contact Noah Horowitz at nhorowitz@nrdc.org, or on the web atwww.switchboard.nrdc.org/blogs/nhorowitz.

Here is the complete list, in chronological order, of the changes we made in our house:

• February 2, 2009. Purchased a Kill A Watt power meter; started measuring usage.
• February 10, 2009. Turned off the Mac workstation when not in use.
• May 9, 2009. Purchased a new PC laptop.
• March 31, 2010. Replaced the washer/dryer with new models.
• July 2, 2010. Replaced the pool pump with new multispeed model.
• December 13, 2010. Replaced kitchen ceiling lighting with LED cans, as part of kitchen remodel.
• December 15, 2010. Replaced TV with 40-inch LED backlit model; installed Comcast digital TV service.
• December 22, 2010. Installed power strip to turn off Comcast DVR box and other TV equipment when not in use.
• January 7, 2011. Replaced den ceiling lighting with LED cans.
• January 19, 2011. Replaced dishwasher, microwave, and stove/oven (the latter with an induction cooktop), as part of kitchen remodel.
• February 3, 2011. Replaced refrigerator, as part of kitchen remodel.
• April 23, 2011. Replaced ceiling lighting in remaining rooms with LED cans.

David H. Bailey is the chief technologist of the Computational Research Department at Lawrence Berkeley Laboratory. He does research in the area of large-scale scientific computing and computational mathematics.

This short article was submitted to Home Energy by David H. Bailey, a scientist at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, in response to Senior Executive Editor Alan Meier’s recent editorial (July/Aug ’11, p. 2), which featured the home of another building scientist and frequent Home Energy contributor, Danny Parker of the Florida Solar Energy Center. Come on, you readers out there, don’t let the scientists hog all the spotlight! Write toJPGunshinan@homeenergy.org and brag about your energy-saving retrofit measures. Or be really brave and tell us about your failures. All data are good!

August 8th, 2011

This letter is to give feedback relating the the air conditioning units installed by Henry Bush. In 2009, I needed air conditioning units for two separate houses. I was very satisfied with the completed work, as well as the pricing. When I needed a unit for a third house, I came back to Henry Bush.

The workers were very pleasant and clean; not only personally but they also cleaned the areas they worked in and the job was completed in the time-frame given.  The local city …]]> We got a great letter from another happy customer this week, so I thought that I’d share it.

August 8th, 2011

This letter is to give feedback relating the the air conditioning units installed by Henry Bush. In 2009, I needed air conditioning units for two separate houses. I was very satisfied with the completed work, as well as the pricing. When I needed a unit for a third house, I came back to Henry Bush.

The workers were very pleasant and clean; not only personally but they also cleaned the areas they worked in and the job was completed in the time-frame given.  The local city inspectors gave me feedback that the unit had been installed by people who knew what they were doing and the system should be very effective.

If you need a reference for future customers, I would be happy to give my recommendation. Henry Bush is a trustworthy company with competitive pricing. If honest and excellent work is what you are looking for, call Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating, and Air Conditioning.

Thank you for another job well done!

Marianne Jacobs
Fontana, CA

Jacobs Testimonial Letter

So, I tested his system and discovered that his system had some ducting issues that was causing it to perform well below its capacity of 4 tons of cooling ( on a house …]]> Over the winter we received a call from a home owner that was having heating and cooling issues in a 5 year old home in the Beaumont area. He complained that the house did not heat nor cool evenly and it was costing him close to $200 per month in the summer to air condition his home. He had already replaced the compressor on his unit and was at his wits end.

So, I tested his system and discovered that his system had some ducting issues that was causing it to perform well below its capacity of 4 tons of cooling ( on a house that is 2200 square feet). We came to an agreement that we would change out his ducting to fix the problems.

Back to the office I went with a drawing of the house in hand. We put it into our engineering software and found out that the house only required 2.5 tons of cooling. Now my dilemma was that if we fixed the ducting he would be oversized  and the system would short-cycle, leading to higher bills and less comfort.

So I headed back to the homeowner to tell him of this problem without trying to sound like I am switch pitching or upselling him. Thankfully, he trusted me and we embarked on a course of swapping out the entire heating and cooling system and replacing it with a new 2.5 ton system. We also eliminated a number of duct runs in the attic that were completely unnecessary. Many of the rooms had 2-3 registers in them with the registers being placed all the way out along the wall and over the windows. This means the air is spending a longer time in ducts that are in a super hot attic. The Energy Star.gov website has suggestions to shorten duct runs for this very purpose. We were able to properly size the necessary ducts and eliminate the unnecessary ones to provide enough air to cool each room.

Everything seemed to be going great with our new design until I received a call from him that his master bedroom just wasn’t cooling as well as the rest of the house, which was “perfect”.

It was upon this visit to the house that I found this badge attached to a wall in the garage I’ve intentionally blocked out the builder’s name on this, because this post is really an indictment on them for allowing poor building practices to take place in their development.

I jumped into the attic and started poking around at insulation. I had my suspicions when I was up there earlier in the season about how poorly the insulation was installed, but at first glance it looked like many of the attics I am in. The comfort issues the homeowner was having lead me to inspect further. When I did I discover that although the insulation looked level throughout, the house is full of drop ceilings and interstitial spaces (huge cavities in the wall)  that weren’t properly insulated. If they were, I would have noticed differing levels in the attic. Here are some pictures.

The most alarming thing about all of this mess, was that this homeowner thought he bought a home that was energy efficient. We found more than what is shown here but much of it didn’t photograph well enough to document.

Bear in mind, with the HVAC retrofit that we had done in the winter, the homeowner had already seen a reduction in electricity bills. He said his most recent one was $90 verses $190 last year. So he was happy about the current energy savings. We just set out to address his comfort issue in the bedroom.

After I reported to him what I found in the attic, he asked us to come back and air seal, retrofit what he had currently so that it was done right and add more insulation. We did so. We air sealed everywhere in the attic. We made sure that all of the existing rolled batt insulation was cut to size and touched 5 sides of the bays. We retrofitted the knee walls so that they would perform correctly and our final step was to blow in 6 more inches of blown in cellulose insulation over everything (an additional R-19+ to the existing). The attic now is performing at R-38+ and the house is much more comfortable. The homeowners bills will come down even more and, as importantly, he will be comfortable in all rooms of his home.

People often tell me that they have huge electric bills in newer homes. It shouldn’t be that way but because of poor building practices in homes that are much larger than homes in the past with many more architectural features built throughout, it is more often true, than not. So don’t accept high bills as a necessary part of living in a larger, newer home. It doesn’t have to be that way.

They are not just plug and play.  Other contractors bid the job, but all they offered was to change out existing equipment.  Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning tested the old HVAC, measured airflow and developed a comprehensive energy efficiency plan. Henry Bush was able to change out a 5 ton air conditioning unit for a 3 ton that is quieter, more energy efficient and effective in evenly …]]> Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning took a 20 year old poorly designed and installed heating and ventilation system, re-engineered it making it much more efficient and eliminating the hot or cold spots throughout the house.

They are not just plug and play.  Other contractors bid the job, but all they offered was to change out existing equipment.  Henry Bush Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning tested the old HVAC, measured airflow and developed a comprehensive energy efficiency plan. Henry Bush was able to change out a 5 ton air conditioning unit for a 3 ton that is quieter, more energy efficient and effective in evenly cooling/heating the house.

We highly recommend this company, can’t say enough about the excellent job they did for us.

Pat Hoppe
Fontana, CA